step 1: pleat shirt back

At center back, make a box pleat and sew with 1/4” seam allowance.

step 2: Attach yokes

Align back yoke pieces to shirt back with right sides together and matching notches, sandwiching the shirt back in between the two yoke pieces. The box pleat should be on the right side or face of the fabric. Sew with 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Be aware that there is a slight curve from the armscye to the first notch, so clipping into the fabric may be necessary depending on the overall weight of the fabric used.

Press the seam allowance up and then top stitch with a scant 1/8” seam allowance.

collar

1. Interface one collar pattern piece and one collar stand pattern piece.

2. With right sides together, sew the collar with 1/4” seam allowance.

3. There are two options for sewing the collar corners: a) leave the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and rotate the piece to continue sewing, or b) end the stitch at the corner with a backstitch, then start stitching again, backstitching over the first backstitch. (see image below).

4. Cut off the corners, leaving just under 1/8” inch away from the stitch line.

5. Turn collar inside out, pushing out collar corners with a knitting needle or other blunt round edge object.

6. Press.

7. Optional: Topstitch with a scant 1/8” seam allowance.

collar stand and attatching collar to collar stand

1. Sandwich completed COLLAR between COLLAR STAND with right sides together; the interfaced side of the COLLAR should be on the opposite side of the interfaced COLLAR STAND. The top of the COLLAR should be facing out of the bottom of the COLLAR STAND (the portion of the COLLAR STAND that will not be sewn here).

2. Begin sewing COLLAR STAND, beginning 1/4” away from the start (see picture below).

3. Trim curved edges, close but not to the stitch line.

4. Flip inside out and press.

1. At notches, fold button PLACKET two times, so that all raw edges are contained. It should be folded in towards the inside of the shirt.

   1. Optional: You may add interfacing to the PLACKET to reinforce the fabric for the buttons and the buttonholes. This will give it more structure and will make the PLACKET stiffer. The recommended interfacing for the PLACKET is Pellon 906F Sheerweight.

2. Top stitch along both edges of the PLACKET.

Burrito Method - Recommended Method for a professional finish - no serger required

1. With right sides together, pin shoulder seams of SHIRT FRONT (Left and Right) to the outside BACK YOKE. The BACK YOKE that is on the inside of the Oxford Shirt should be left hanging down.

2. Roll SHIRT BACK and SHIRT FRONT (Left and Right) together into a tube just until the neckline.

3. Bring the unpinned BACK YOKE around the rolled up shirt and pin all shoulder seams together. The 2 BACK YOKE pieces should sandwich the SHIRT FRONT (Left and Right).

4. Sew with 1/2” seam allowance.

5. Pull the rolled up shirt out of the open neck.

6. Press. Optional: Topstitch along pressed seam with 1/8” seam allowance.

Non-Burrito Method - Serger Required

1. With right sides together, sew shoulder seams with 1/2” seam allowance. Press seams open and then serge/overlock raw edges.

short sleeve construction

1. With SHIRT FRONT and SHIRT BACK laying wrong side down, attach SHORT SLEEVE with right sides together, aligning at notches.

2. Sew with 1/4” seam allowance.

3. Encase raw edges with a serger/overlocker, bias binding, or pink the raw edges to prevent fraying.

4. Repeat on other side of SHIRT.

Long sleeve construction: placket

1. Attach SLEEVE PLACKET to SLEEVE:

   1. Transfer all markings to inside of LONG SLEEVE and wrong side of SLEEVE PLACKET.

   2. Align right side of SLEEVE PLACKET to inside/wrong side of LONG SLEEVE, matching the sew and cut lines (see picture below).

   3. Sew SLEEVE PLACKET to LONG SLEEVE along outside of box.

   4. Cut the down the center of the stitching line through both LONG SLEEVE and SLEEVE PLACKET to triangle; cut to, but not through, the stitching, following the triangle markings.

   5. Cut the SLEEVE PLACKET on the 1/4” line on the longer part of the SLEEVE PLACKET. Fold the upper portion of the SLEEVE PLACKET along the diagonal lines (you should fold along one diagonal line, press, then fold along the other diagonal line). You should have a triangle top with all raw edges encased.

   6. Fold SLEEVE PLACKET to the outside of the LONG SLEEVE. Press.

   7. Fold the short side of the SLEEVE PLACKET twice at notches, encasing all raw edges. Pin shut. Topstitch.

   8. Repeat with the long side of the SLEEVE PLACKET, folding at notches, and encasing raw edge of short side of SLEEVE PLACKET within the triangle. Sew from bottom of SLEEVE PLACKET up to the triangle, pivot at each of the corners, sewing the short edge of the SLEEVE PLACKET into the triangle. This should encase all of the raw edges and create a closure for the cut portion of the LONG SLEEVE.

      1. DETAILED VIDEO (TBC)

   9. Optional: Add button to the covered side of the SLEEVE PLACKET and buttonhole to the outside of the SLEEVE PLACKET.

   10. Repeat.

2. Attach LONG SLEEVE to SHIRT

   1. With SHIRT FRONT and SHIRT BACK laying wrong side down, attach LONG SLEEVE with right sides together, aligning at notches.

   2. Sew with 1/4” seam allowance.

   3. Encase raw edges with a serger/overlocker, bias binding, or pink the raw edges to prevent fraying.

   4. Repeat on other side of SHIRT.

sewing sleeve and side seamS

1. Pin with right sides together SLEEVE side seams and SHIRT FRONT and SHIRT BACK aligning at notches.

2. With right sides together, sew with 1/2” seam allowance from SHORT SLEEVE hem to bottom notch on SHIRT FRONT and SHIRT BACK. Pay attention to the zig zag nature of the SHORT SLEEVE hem, as this will allow you to fold the hem correctly. Stop sewing with a backstitch when you get to the bottom notch.

3. Press the side seams open.

4. At this point you can either flat fell the seams, serge/overlock raw edges, or pink the raw edges.

5. Repeat on other side

6. Hem SHORT SLEEVES, folding at notches and topstitch.

ADDING CUFF to LONG SLEEVE

1. Interface 2 of the CUFF pieces.

2. With right sides together, sew along the two short sides and one long side of the CUFF with 1/2” seam allowance, leaving 1/2” open on each of the short sides. This is done to be able to sew the unattached side of the cuff to the inside of the LONG SLEEVE.

3. Cut corners and turn inside out and press.

4. Pin interfaced side with right sides together to outside/right side of LONG SLEEVE. Sew with 1/2” seam allowance. Trim seam allowance to 1/4”.

5. Press seam allowance towards cuff.

6. Fold in 1/2” seam allowance, pin, and topstitch along the entire CUFF.

7. Add button and buttonholes.

8. Repeat on other LONG SLEEVE.

1. Pin with right sides together interfaced side of COLLAR STAND to outside of shirt along neckline.

2. Sew with 1/4” seam allowance.

3. Press the seams up towards the COLLAR STAND.

4. Press the non-interfaced side of the COLLAR STAND seam allowance and pin to inside of SHIRT along neckline.

5. Stitch in the ditch to finish COLLAR STAND construction or topstitch along all sides of the COLLAR STAND.

gusset

1. Press GUSSET sides in 1/4” and fold in half, enclosing all raw edges.

2. Fold in unsewn side seam on each side twice. You may need to clip into the seam allowance to do this.

3. Attach GUSSET to inside of shirt, topstiching it to the seam allowance.

4. Repeat step.

Hem bottom of shirt

1. Hem bottom of shirt. The hem allowance is 3/4”. Fold hem allowance in 3/8”, press. Fold the hem up again another 3/8” and press. To get the right shape, you will need a lot of steam. Take your time.

2. Topstitch the hem allowance in place.

Buttons and Buttonholes

1. Add Buttons

2. Add Buttonholes